Chilean quake rattles La Paz

A 7.9 magntitude quake struck northern Chile this evening at 22:44 GMT. The epicenter, about 250 miles southwest of La Paz, is a mountainous region far from the coast so tsunami activity is not anticipated. Reuters reports one death in Chile as the result of a landslide triggered by the quake, and widespread damage. (The rest of the world's media seems to be too interested in Michael Jackson's acquittal this afternoon to pay much attention.)

Chile's National Office of Emergency Services (ONEMI) has declared a red alert for the region. The country's vice president and various ministers have been dispatched to the affected area by Air Force aircraft. A second plane is flying 15 tons of shelter supplies to interior locations in the region. ONEMI reports at least one casualty, 80-year-old Dionisio Pérez, who was crushed in his home, and numerous others injured.

Tectonic activity is relatively common in this region where the Pacific's Nazca plate subducts beneath the South American plate. The last major event in this region, June 23, 2001, was centered off the coast of Arequipa in southern Peru and caused a tremendous amount of damage, destroying 80% of the homes and most of the infrastructure in that region. Most of the agricultural systems in that area were also ruined as a consequence of the accompanying tsunami. That quake measured 8.1 and was recorded as far away as Japan.

Here in La Paz, no one with whom I've spoken felt the quake. Because I live on the 11th floor of my apt building, it was quite noticeable. Preliminary estimates of the quake's magnitude here in Bolivia are around 3 to 3.5. Although I've had my share of ground shaking experiences in California, this is the first I've experienced in a high-rise building: not fun.

Earlier today, a 5.6 magnitude quake struck about 200 miles southwest of Banda Aceh, Indonesia. I've been able to find no reports on this event, however.

Breathing room

It's Saturday morning and Bolivia has entered its second day under new leadership, a hopeful truce and cautious optimism for change. Eduardo Rodríguez, the caretaker president who emerged unexpectedly from the fray in Sucre Thursday night, has promised to quickly tackle the nation's concerns: nationalisation of the gas industry and a constitutional assembly to redress the injustices suffered by the indigenous citizens for decades, if not centuries.

Central to the process which brought him the presidency, Rodríguez' has affirmed his constitutional mandate to hold general elections within 150 days. A lawyer and current chief justice of Bolivia's supreme court, he is well-versed in constitutional doctrine, statutes and procedure, and he has already predicated his proposed game plan regarding hydrocarbons upon such a background:

"We should be able to address the issue of hydrocarbons...The constitution says the hydrocarbons belong to the state. That has not changed; what has changed is the way they are managed."

Likewise, those in support of a constitutional convention should be pleased with his (expected) expert participation.

Though a member of the MNR, Rodríguez maintains a non-partisan position owing in part, at least, to his continued office of chief justice, a neutrality which has brought him rare popular trust in a country well-educated in the abuse of power. It will be interesting to see if Rodríguez opts to step into the ring against the leading pretender to the presidency, Evo Morales. While not barred from such a decision, he would first have to claim a party affiliation with MNR or, perhaps, inaugurate a new party.

Another bit of news should further encourage Bolivians: the G7 (G8 minus Russia) has today agreed to wipe out Bolivia's debts to the World Bank and IMF. Bolivia is one of eighteen countries which will benefit from this extraordinary debt relief package brokered by the UK's chancellor of the Exchequer, Gordon Brown, a long-time promoter of reducing debt in developing countries. Bolivia's share of the initiative is more than $2 billion (Jubilee Research). The deal will be signed at the Gleneagles G8 summit in three weeks.

Many unknowns (known and unknown...) remain as this chapter of Bolivian history writes itself. But at this altitude, the extra breathing room, no matter how small, is greatly appreciated.

Into the night

UPDATE (18:23): The extraordinary congressional session originally planned for this morning, and later delayed until this evening, has been postponed indefinitely. President of the Congress, Hormando Vaca Diez, and his entourage have been whisked away from the Casa de la Libertad in SUV's, the last, apparently, of the politicos to flee swelling unrest around the plaza where they were to meet. He is reportedly en route to the airport. National deputy, Oswaldo Justiniano, is claiming on Notivisión news (in a shaking voice) that the "evacuation" of the members of Congress is the result of an "act of terrorism." The country, it seems, is now without a government...

The conflict has claimed its first casualty.

Details are sketchy right now as they are coming in as this is written. A 52-year-old Potosí miner, Carlos Coro Mayta, has succumbed to injuries suffered during a confrontation with army units in Sucre, near Yotala. The father of four children was president of the 27 de mayo mining cooperative. Three others were injured in the same incident.

The miners are arriving to the center of Sucre, calling for the resignation of Hormando, angry from the loss of their fellow miner. they are outfitted with the tools of their trade, including dynamite. Army units are deploying now, their weapons well in view.

After an initial postponement from this morning at 10:30 am to 6 pm this evening, there is growing concern that Congress will not be able to meet. One delegate interviewed moments ago on ATB news notes that many congressional delegates have returned to their hotels and elsewhere out of concerns of personal security. Others are reportedly heading for the airport to escape the approaching protestors. Hormando Vaca Diez location is unknown at this time, fifteen minutes before the Congress is scheduled to meet.

One senator, Carlos Sandi, a member of Evo Morales' party MAS, has reportedly suffered a heart attack and has been transferred to Santa Barbara Hospital. President of the Mixed Commission of the Constitution, he has been active in recent months preparing methodologies for the proposed Santa Cruz referendum on autonomy.

Hormando Vaca Diez emerged earlier to announce unexpectedly, "I am the president of the Republic, excuse me, of the Congress at this time..."

The masses are gathering again at Plaza San Francisco in central La Paz, though most media eyes remain trained on Sucre.

International observers are arriving to the country's only functional airport in Santa Cruz de la Sierra. Mesa urges them to attend to the movements of the congress in Sucre.

I'm getting very nervous now...

The waiting game

It's mid-afternoon now, and the city is relatively quiet. Few cars are making their way up Avenida Arce toward the Prado, seemingly ashamed to be out in public. Primarily radio taxis and trufis with the occasional private car, I'm counting four to five a minute, virutally nothing on one of La Paz's busier arteries.

With the exception of the state network, Siete Dias, local cable television has returned to premium programming -- novelas, toons and the Super Safari cash giveaway show -- to salvage what they can of advertising dollars. A respite, perhaps, for many ciudanos, though outside my window comes the intermittent thud of dynamite from the direction of Plaza Murrillo.

Word is that Congress won't be meeting until around 6 pm this evening to cast their fateful votes on President Mesa's resignation. The Constitution has already decided that Hormando Vaca Diez, wealthy rancher from the lowlands and president of the Senate, will assume the vacant office if the resignation is ratified... and there is little expectation that it won't be.

This creates a conundrum, however... for the worse. The frog-mouthed Cow Ten, who could easily be mistaken for the 1970's television detective, Frank Cannon, has political capital, but his popular support among the constituency is next to nil. A member of MIR, he resembles nothing of the leftist, Christian Democrat students who founded the party in 1971, now little more than an Orwellian political machine; and, he may be the exact opposite of those who are fighting for change: the poor, highland campesinos (the broader coalition with whom they are aligned, notwithstanding).

Little wonder that most, including Mr. Mesa, fear a class, if not civil, war should Hormando take the presidency. In fact, Mr. Mesa has openly begged Hormando to resign and avoid an imminent collision which might well take this country over the edge. But, Bolivian politics has always been about power. There is no reason to believe Detective Cannon will turn in his badge and gun this close to his quarry. He's reaching for his prize and he has enough stooges in his corner to back him no matter the consequences.

And, so, we wait for word from Sucre. Each moment an hour, each hour a century. And, we hope. For the best. Expecting the worst.

At least the sun has reappeared.

Ominous skies

Following weeks of sun, La Paz crouches warily this afternoon under greying skies, a sullen expression of the tense uncertainty which enfolds the city.

It's not quite noon here and protestors have filled the streets once again after a day of near tranquility. "Fuerza, fuerza, fuerza..." they chant in response to their megaphone-outfitted leaders. Explosions of dynamite echo off the nearby buildings, including my own from where I "enjoy" an upper-floor view of the marchers. They are coming down Avenida Arce, snaking around the Radisson, directly north of me across a small plaza, then back up Capitan Ravelo, no doubt heading for Plaza Murillo where they will once again be met with tear gas and rubber bullets... if they are fortunate.

Small wisps of smoke puff out over their heads as they toss their noise-makers into the air. Today they appear more solemn, their steps more like that of a funeral dirge, than in past weeks when they seemed more agitated and hurried. Thousands pass by, eight to ten abreast, clapping and chanting rhythmically, as they curl past a nervous line of a dozen Policia Nacional.

Time to check the news now for an update on the situation around the country... I'm curious (of course) how things are faring in Sucre, as that will guide all that happens here in La Paz today.

... on the edge

Following are a few notes I shared this morning with friends who returned to England last year:

Sorry for no word yesterday... I hope I didn't leave you worried.

Here's a quick overview of the situation, though I'm sure you've heard most of it.

Yesterday was pretty quiet here in LP as the focus shifted to Sucre. But, the tranquility has been misleading. Among the developments here: El Alto has declared its independence from Bolivia and no longer recognizes the government. I'm waiting for more details on this very disturbing news.

Electricity, garbage collection and water are out in some parts of the city according to news reports, though i've been unaffected... so far... Petrol has completely dried up, so there is almost no traffic on the streets. We've been using the taxi company next door at the Radisson. Their response times have increased significantly, taking about a half hour last night. Fares are up from 6 Bs to 10 or more as I've heard that petrol is selling on the streets for 20 Bs a liter. El Alto is rejecting all efforts to let some gas through. No propane gas to be found either. A reporter is interviewing some folks on the street who have sat outside all night in line for refills which may never come.

Things I wish I had on hand: gas camp stove and a good sized battery back up. I'd be more comfortable with larger supplies of coffee, leche, and eggs. Plenty of dry goods, bread and water on hand (boiling and filtering each day) and I subscribe to bottled water now so I'm set there. Paid 63 Bs for a chicken at Ketal on Tuesday afternoon.

The airport has been shut down completely now. You may have heard that American and LAN Chile had earlier suspended all flights in and out of La Paz, though American continues to serve Santa Cruz. (Not sure how this will affect our Cholitas in Space!) Relief flights from the Beni and Tarija into La Paz are also being thwarted by the alteños.

The congress will meet in a couple of hours, so all eyes will be on the outcome and the consequences. It's becoming increasingly violent here -- concerns of civil war are gaining credibility, especially is Vaca Diez doesn't resign or decline the presidency. Evo is posturing a bit as pretender to the throne, though I'm not sure how he would fare in that position now that most of his constituency (El Alto) has formed their own government. I think it's the general consensus that Rodriguez should take the office and call elections immediately. Caught some vid clips on the news of the folks in Zona Sur meeting again to declare solidarity with the movement contra Vaca Diez and sign petitions of some sort (a favorite activity of the wealthy who don't know how to use dynamite). Crazy!

More later today as things go down... and as I wake up and remember what I forgot to write.

Thanks, too, for the links! I should be bloggin'. It's a blazing 2 deg C here now. Time for coffee.

Where have all the 'mer'cans gone...?

Nowhere, apparently. A friend with the US embassy here in La Paz tells me this morning that reports on CNN (and elsewhere) that the United States has "ordered non-emergency personnel at its embassy in Bolivia and diplomats' relatives to leave the country" is a bit inaccurate. In fact, personnel are being offered the option of working in Washington for up to thirty days. A little different from being "ordered" and a good example of the mis-information floating around.

A travel warning from the US State Department has been in effect since Tuesday, June 7.

Beginning or end?

This morning, in Sucre, Bolivia's "other" capitol, legislators will meet and determine the fate of Bolivia for decades or centuries to come -- not so much by their own actions, as by the consequences of the choices they will make.

Stay tuned...